Azenhas Do Mar

Most tourists who travel the Algarve actually only see the Western Algarve. This is where you find those beautiful beaches right in front of your doorstep. But if you spend your holidays here you should visit the Eastern Algarve, too, for this part of the coast is also fantastic. It is simply…… a bit different. In a good way!

The town Faro divides the Algarve in its Western and Eastern parts. The reason that the Eastern part is not as touristy as the Western, is that at Faro the Ria Formosa Nature Preserve Area starts. It goes until Manta Rota, which is ca. 55km east of Faro. This whole part of the coast lies at the Ria Formosa River, behind a wonderful lagoon area and has no direct access to the beach. So it is not as suitable for beach holidays. But on the other hand the nature preserve area is one of the Algarve’s most precious jewels: It offers food and rest for many migratory birds and hides one of Portugal’s most celebrated culinary treasures: the mussels. And ask yourself anyway, isn’t it nice to get a bit away from the tourism-centres from time to time?

The best time during the week to take a day trip is Saturday. Because then you should start in Olhão, a town 9km away from Faro. On Saturdays is market day in Olhão. The two market halls (one just for fish, the other one for vegetables and fruits) are open every day, but only on Saturday you will also find the farmer’s market. Farmers from everywhere in the area are selling their home-grown vegetables, meat, flowers and there are also music CDs, drapery and a lot of other things. It is a lively, great atmosphere, one must experience if travelling this area.

Olhão is a fishing town. Until the end of the 17th century there were just a few houses, then a church was built and the town started to grow. Around the church a quarter developed itself that looks like a Moorish quarter as there are many at the Algarve. But this is the only Moorish quarter without a Moorish tradition. Fishers from Olhão had seen the houses in Northern Africa and recognized their ability to cool, so they simply decided to copy them.

Still today, fish is the most important thing here. Olhão has one of the most important, biggest fishing harbours in whole Portugal and there are two big canning factories for sardines, tuna, etc.

From Olhão the tour continues to the town of Tavira with its 15000 inhabitants. Here you will see one of the most beautiful towns of Southern Portugal with a very warm, welcoming atmosphere. The townscape is defined by small houses, where every room has its own small roof with four sides, by the Rio Gilão, a river that flows through the whole town, and by Tavira’s 37 churches. Almost every religious order was present in Tavira at some time. Up to 1920 Tavira was also a fishing town but then the harbour silted up.

Today most things happen on the right bank of the Gilão. The Praça da República close to the bank is a good point to start a little tour. It also offers one of the nicest views of the water, the other bank and the bridge with its seven arches which was built in Roman times. If you walk down the river you can stroll through a little park where you can take a little break in picturesque cafés, bars or restaurants.

You should also visit some of the churches. One of the most famous ones is the Misercórdia-Church built in the Renaissance. It is one of the few Portuguese renaissance-churches that survived the big earthquake in 1755. It has a beautiful monumental entrance, great “azulejos” (hand-drawn tiles) and an impressive high altar.
Also very pretty are the gardens of the old castle. Stroll around a little and take a look at the ruins of the Moorish fortress.

And if you do not want to miss a little relaxing at the beach, take one of the small ferrys to the Ilha da Tavira. One side of the island is exposed to the Ria Formosa river, the other side to the Atlantic Ocean. It has a great beach with fine, white sand.

At the end of your tour through Tavira you should visit the Pego do Inferno. This beautiful waterfall lays a little outside of the town. This little piece of nature is unbelievable pretty. But careful – swimming is not allowed here.

If you are not too tired yet you should continue to Cacela Velha. Because of a ban to build new houses, this little village is one of the most original and nicest places at the Algarve. An old Moorish castle, a church, a town square, a few houses and only two little restaurants, that is all there is, but it is so cute – one must love this! And the restaurants are very good! If you stand at the church look down to the Ria Formosa. The view from the village is breathtaking!

The Eastern Algarve definitely deserves a day in your holidays. It is a beautiful place where you can see the real Algarve and enjoy the great atmosphere while watching Portuguese men and women fishing or walking around with them through small, picturesque streets. If you travel to Portugal and stay in the Algarve, you really should go there.